the great american dinner party

There has been a gradual food revolution in America over the last 40 years. Entertaining at home has evolved. What used to revolve around a couple of kinds of events like holiday dinners, barbecues, and cocktail parties has become the great dinner party. My grandmother was a wonderful cook and she made warm family dinners on Sundays and holidays, but I don't ever remember her having a dinner party for no other reason but to have over a group of friends. Not an option. So, what's different now? And how did we become such discerning cooks and entertainers?

A couple of things changed really. Cooking became popular!  It became trendy. Then it just became lifestyle. Julia Child kicked it off with the concept that you can cook "restaurant" at home. Alice Waters let us make it simple and very fresh. Voila, the food "industrial complex" is born. We are a nation that takes cooking classes from star chefs, invests in dozens of cookbooks, watches hours of the Food Network, and spend our evenings interpreting top recipes for our friends. (My mother's favorite, sit-down theme dinners for 12.)

The second thing that changed was the concept of what comprised family. If you have moved away from home (like myself) and can't be at every family dinner, your friendships, which can span dozens of years, become the new family dinner.

I became so much more aware of this recently. Actually, my friends made the point very clear and it became the idea about how even in economically challenging times the dinner party evolves again. They made the suggestion that rather than ever cut back on our dinners , we all contribute in one way or another, wines, liquor, even cash, pooled. Not that we didn't contribute before, its just more purposeful. Its about maintaining the time together.

So I did just what the great American cook would do: I made panini appetizers from Harry's Bar in Venice, veal osso buco by Tyler Florence and blackberry mousse right out of the Silver Palate Cookbook. Sound familar? Yes, once again it was shock and awe!

organic gourmet burger at pearl's deluxe burger on post

You know, one of the great things about San Francisco is the little gems of restaurants that are tucked into this corner or that all over the city. Pearl's Deluxe Burger (pun intended) is just such a gem. The original Pearl's Phat Burger is from Mill Valley, specializing in top quality beef, plus buffalo and organic beef on request. I stumbled onto it completely by accident when I was searching for great sweet potato fries. You don't see them around too often, and a friend said you have to try this new place on Post. (It has since been there a couple of years and I have been there several times.) It's not far from my house so it was a no-brainer to try it on the way home. It's a small place with seating for about 15 maxed out and pristinely clean. I think they do a crazy take-out business.

The basic pearl deluxe is a 1/2 lb beef burger on a sesame seed bun with curly leaf lettuce, mayo, onion and tomato. This isn't anything we haven't seen before, but the key is the very fresh ingredients. They also do a mini pearl that is a 1/4 pounder. But believe me you can have it anyway you want it with any number of combinations such as the Phat Bob with bacon, onions, jack cheese and bbq sauce, to a hamburger with a hotdog on top called the "King." Fries and onion rings are available but the sweet potato fries are the house speciality. They do a dead on perfect dill pickle spear that is cold and crispy like a refrigerator pickle. Have as many as you like--they are serve yourself. In case you are still feeling a little weak with hunger, there are dozens of gourmet milkshakes to choose from such as blackberry, chocolate chip, pumpkin, or peanut butter. No it isn't that cheap, but it is a nicely done handmade product--and I hear a rumor there may a 2nd location in SF in the works. Hope you get lucky enough to have it in your neighborhood. . . . till next time.

maya excels at modern mexican cuisine

Well reader, if you are looking for the more elegant side of Mexican cuisine, Maya is the place for you. Maya is a destination restaurant. What I mean by that is that you have the feeling as you enter and look around the reserved, warm room that everyone has a celebration--a birthday or anniversary--there is an air of anticipation. You do feel special. You are greeted warmly by either the hostess or the manager, Eric Flores. Service is quiet and quick and the manager is very hands on, either pouring water, making recommendations or delivering food.

You must try the guacamole and chips. It is probably the best I have ever had. Brendan approves--the salt, garlic and cilantro level are perfect. The chips are flour tortilla fried to order. We next share their take on a chili relleno, a seafood stuffed pablano accompanied with creamy black beans and manchego cheese, roasted to creamy deliciousness. Entrees are no less interesting. I had the Langosta Y Camarones, a lovely almost broth like combination of lobster, shrimp, roasted corn, habanero chili and chive rouille. How does that sound?! Brendan's entree is what I am going to order next time--Tampiquena, a butterflied filet mignon that turned into an outrageous large steak so tender you could eat it with a fork. Add to it a melt in the mouth potato gratin with a petite mole and cheese enchilada on the side....all this plus fresh muddled fruit margaritas. The house special, the Mayapolitan, is an up drink of pineapple infused silver tequila and cranberry juice. I know I had a great dessert, but by this time I was in such a food coma I can't remember--Ha ha.

Thank you Richard Sandoval, chef/owner of Maya and the concept of Modern Mexican.

unique round tamales at the roosevelt tamale parlor in san francisco

This is a new venture for me. Not that I haven't considered it before--its just that you must BEGIN! I'm a foodie who loves to eat, cook and restaurant hop. This may be my 1st post but I reserve the right to talk about restaurant experiences from the past--flashbacks if you will of the good , the bad and the ugly. I get on kicks, where I am obsessed with a certain food, type of restaurant or all things braised. You never know what will set it off. So what is my lastest? The search for that down and dirty, oohey-goohey cheesey mexican food like I have enjoyed in LA. It must also include the right atmosphere--a sitdown experience, no counter ordering, a certain ambience, like cozy red or black pleather booths and christmas lights. It needs a certain camp. The tequila must be plentiful. I am inspired by one of my best friends (you will hear of him often because he is my partner in crime in restaurant hopping) Brendan, who truly loves mexican food. All kinds, casual to novelle. We have tried it all, from Eureka, Alameda, SF, LA, NYC, Vegas and Cabo and all points in between.

Okay, I have tried several restaurants in San Francisco and I will get to them. But 1st, I will tell you about yesterday's adventure. I selected 2 choices from a few yelp posts--Don Ramon's at 225 11st and Roosevelt Tamale Parlor at 2817 24th. Turns out, Don Ramon's doesn't do lunch on Saturday, Sunday or Monday, so Tamale Parlor it is! Great day too, I wanted to take the 27 bus to 24th on the day Market was closed for St Patrick's Day Parade. No problem--only waited an hour--and a 45 minute detour and voila, I am at the Tamale Parlor. Established in 1919, great funky signage and warm interior, so far so good. Okay, no booths but still cozy. I am seated at a table for 4 so I can see the other diners. Hey, I may not be able to order everything on the menu, but I can still get a visual. I know what I want to order--guacamole for sure (always a good judge of the food to come) and the house specialty, the round tamale. The waiter suggests a half order of guacamole and this great because it is not listed on the menu. I also order the round tamale with pork (it is also available with chicken, cheese, or beef) with a cheese enchilada and a side of flour tortillas. The tamale is described well--"original recipe" and "house made gravy". You want to like it, you really do. I have visions of intense flavor, slow cooking, warmth and comfort. Can't wait. The guacamole arrives and it is a nice portion size for a half order. It's OK, but not great. Too much citrus. I mean too much lime. For me, a little or no lime is fine. As Brendan says, it is all about the garlic and salt and believe me, his is great.

My tamale/enchilada arrives with perfect timing, a very hot and ooey, gooey plate. Looks good!
Alright, first bite. Hmmm, masa and pork, very tender. Rice and beans seasoned well and delicate. But the sauce, it's heavy, even overpowering. What's that flavor? Perhaps coffee? Not sure. The enchilada is covered with the same sauce where a different sauce would have been nice. The result--it all tasted the same.

My waiter never checked to see if I liked the tamale and the tortillas never arrived. I will say the price was very reasonable and I saw a killer looking chimichanga at the next table.

Well dear food lover and reader, the hunt for perfect Mexican continues. I will keep you posted.